For a number of years, Dodge put an early form of computer control on their engines which combined electronic ignition with electronically controlled carburetors. Unfortunately, it had its problems, so a retro-fit kit was sold which allowed the electronic controls to be removed. How can you tell if this has been done to your truck? :
For a lean burn removal as I know it, you Need a ballast resistor, a "normal" spark control box, at least 5 feet of the wiring harness that conects to the spark control box, a spark control box, and a "normal" distributor with vacuum advance. I'll give you the low-down on a "normal" ignition installation:
1) Remove Lean Burn computer/air filter housing. =)
2) Turn the engine over so the distributor rotor is setting close to firing #1 cylinder (just makes it easier when/if you need to swap distributors) (Distributor cap can be reused, so leave the spark plug wires alone)
3) Install regular distributor appropriately (so rotor will be firing the correct cylinder). Also take note that the pickup coil pole peice is appropriately aligned.
4) Mount ECU (normal spark control box) and ballast resistor (remember this sucker gets hot, so keep wires/hoses/meltables away from it).
5) Plug in the ECU harness; this typically has 5 wires. You only need 4. Two wires have a connector attached to them, these connect to the mating wires dangling from the distributor.
6) Red/Green wire is unused it corresponds to pin 3 of the ECU. This can be cut off not done so already.
7) Remove the wire going to the coil negative (-), and run the Black/Yellow ECU wire (pin 2 of the ECU) to the coil negative (-)
http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/glasses.gif ALT=""> Remove the wire going to the coil positive (+) run a NEW wire from the coil positive to the Ballast resistor (hooking this up comes later)
9) Blu/Yellow (pin 1 of ECU) gets run to the ballast resistor.
10) Two more lengths of wire needed now, color coded of course http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/wink.gif ALT=""> Blue wire, and a Brown wire.
11) Take the blue wire and mate it with the Blue/Yellow wire from the ECU, This connection gets attached to one end of the ballast resistor, so an appropriate crimp connector to mate with the ballast resistor will be required.
12) The brown wire gets mated with the new wire you ran from the coil positive (+). This pair of wires plugs into the other end of the ballast resistor.
13) The blue wire goes to a 12 volt source in the "RUN" posistion.
14) The brown wire goes to a 12 volt source in the "START" only posistion.
For step 13 & 14, check the wires originally feeding the coil, also, check wires that where used in the Lean Burn connectors for the appropriate 12 volt sources. Heres where a wiring diagram comes in handy.
For #13, 12volts durning RUN & START is acceptable.
For #14, it has to be 12 volts only during start (this is the ballast resistor bypass for starting)
Don't use the brown wire going down to the starter from the starter relay. =) There's apparently another brown wire on the relay.
DODGEBOYS /84 /RC/locked/35BOGGERS/// MOPAR TO YA!!!
30 year ASE Master Mechanic
30 year ASE Master Mechanic